Romano Dal Forno og hans tre sønner råder over 30 ha vinmarker. Udover Recioto laver Dal Forno kun to vine. En Valpolicella og en Amarone. Romano Dal Forno overtog gården i 1980 og med hjælp og inspiration fra legendariske Giuseppe Quintarelli opnåede Dal Forno allerede i slutningen af 1980erne stor anerkendelse nationalt og internationalt for alle tre vine. Dal Fornos vine er meget koncentrerede, hvilket bl.a. kan anskueliggøres ved, at der til 15 liter Amarone går 100 kg druer. Kvalitetsbevidstheden er høj hos Dal Forno, hvilket betyder at der er enkelte år hvor de påtænkte druuer til amaroneproduktion overgår til Valpolicella-produktion. "Statistikken" viser at det er i de år at Valpolicella høster højeste ratings hos bl.a. Robert Parker - senest i 2005 og 2007. Eneste ulempe med Dal Fornos vine er den høje prisklasse, men de er en oplevelse i sig selv. Dal Fornos hjemmeside www.dalfornoromano.it
Robert Parker skrev i 2013:
The wines of Romano Dal Forno are always a highlight of my annual tasting calendar. In many regards, these radically unique wines put the wine critic to the test, not the other way around. I approach the evaluation with a certain level of apprehension and am willing to bet that many of my wine-writing colleagues experience similar emotions. Dal Forno’s wines throw so much at you at once, in machine-gun rapid-fire succession, you need extra time to recover from the whiplash, gather your thoughts and assess them correctly. They are nearly impossible to taste blind because the enormity of the sensorial characteristics, the stratospheric intensity and the utterly impenetrable appearance are dead giveaways. These wines shout their true identities at ear-piercing decibels. Tasted too young, they are not even likeable. The exaggerated extraction and astringency make them unapproachable for years. Amazingly, beyond the cacophony is melody. Once I “got” these wines, I started to consider them like unique works of art. A painting could hold violent splashes of color but still bring peace to the viewer. A fashion design could be outrageously modeled but still bring comfort to the wearer. Loud percussions can still be part of beautiful music.
eRobertParker.com #216
Dec 2014 |
Monica Larner |
94+ |
Drink: 2017 - 2035 |
$89-$100 |
Built like a tank, the 2009 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta is a masterful achievement. This wine shows so beautifully, especially in a warm but balanced vintage like 2009. The fruit is expressive and articulate with deep layers of blackberry preserves, dried cherry, dark chocolate, espresso bean, mesquite smoke and soy sauce. The mouthfeel is super rich and concentrated as the Dal Forno signature style would dictate. The tannic bite is still strong and this wine needs a few more years to stretch out its muscular build. I'd suggest drinking it after 2018.
The wines of Romano Dal Forno prove to be, once again, impossible to duplicate. They show such a high degree of individual personality that they occupy their own school of stylistic expression. In fact, they share very little, if anything, with the rest of vino italiano. |
