The 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggiale is an amazingly full and generous Sangiovese with a vibrant level of aromatic intensity. If Castellare di Castellina were to make a Gran Selezione wine, Il Poggiale would be the obvious candidate. But both owner Paolo Panerai and winemaker Alessandro Cellai remain opposed to the idea. Fruit is sourced from a 45-year-old vineyard. It offers rich layers of plump cherry fruit, chocolate, spicy oak and grilled herb. These elements come together in seamless fashion.