Congratulations to the Gaja family and their 2013 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo. This is a sheer and powerful expression of Nebbiolo that boasts a very firm and precise textural quality. The wine is 100% Nebbiolo, as blended Barbera is no longer part of the Sorì San Lorenzo DNA. The tannins are sharply delineated with a crunchy snap that you feel on the palate. This should definitely serve to keep the wine firmly rooted and committed to a slow aging trajectory. That structural firmness is the defining characteristic of this wine, and that unique identity is even more evident now that this wine is officially classified as Barbaresco.Drink Date 2020 - 2045
This exciting set of wines from the Gaja family represents a true stylistic departure and a not-so-subtle break with the past. I enjoyed a very interesting tasting with Gaia Gaja at her family's Barbaresco property in May. As I tasted through the wines recorded below, I made a note to myself regarding what I perceived as a sharper tannic delineation in the wines and a more focused quality to the fruit. These wines are noticeably less fleshy, chewy or succulent compared to past vintages. They are tonic, crisp, angular and fiercely determined in a uniquely distinct manner. Angelo Gaja joined us at the conclusion of my tasting to exchange greetings. I asked if there was any new news to relay to my readers. The father and daughter team exchanged furtive glances and announced sheepishly: "Yes, there is something..." Have I piqued your interest? Look no further than the appellation field: The Langhe Nebbiolo DOC designation on the Costa Russi, Sorì Tildìn and Sorì San Lorenzo wines has been replaced by Barbaresco DOCG. These celebrated wines (that in the past saw the addition of 5% Barbera) are now 100% expression of Nebbiolo. "This change is something we've been discussing as a family for a long time," says a smiling Gaia Gaja. This is indeed a new chapter for Gaja.
Galloni 98
Gaja's Sorì San Lorenzo, arguably the most iconic of all the wines, is superb. The 2013 is dark, virile and imposing, with a more classically leaning expression of power than in the recent past, not to mention tons of raw intensity. A host of graphite, savory herb, menthol, licorice, lavender, smoke and dark-fleshed fruits meld into the huge, tannic finish. There is a touch of French oak, but the personality of this site marries very naturally with the cooperage.